This month, Heidi Licata of culinary website Delicious and Simple visited “restaurant on the corner” Affina Food and Wine, located at the Southwest corner of 6th and San Carlos in Carmel by the Sea, California.
The light metropolitan ambience emanating from the artsy wicker and metal lighting, polished U-shaped tasting bar and the beautiful white Kimball Viennese classic grand piano occupying the corner of the restaurant provide a solid first impression of this one-year-old restaurant. Black and white movies play on a large screen in the open dining room, and live entertainment immerses diners in an upscale, yet casual experience. Licata was quite impressed with their extensive wine menu, and to have Otter Cove and Oh Wines owner Richard Oh present to pair each dish with the appropriate vintage completed her entire experience. She then spoke with certified Chef de Cuisine James Anderson, formerly of La Bicyclette and Casanova restaurants about his “farm-fresh-to-table” fare.
An amalgamation of Californian cuisine with a hint of French culinary influence, the menu at Affina is seasonal and largely utilizes organic ingredients from local purveyors. The chef wanted to show Heidi and the Play Monterey community exactly what this kind of cuisine entails and was more than obliged to share the recipe for his Summer Truffle Risotto. This light, yet satisfying dish is designed to be eaten in “three really good, big bites,” as described by the chef himself. Each flavor component is revealed in an surprisingly expected order as it graces the palate; initially, the earthy richness of Tartufata (truffle paste) and aged goat gouda bursts forth, followed by the freshness and acidity of the heirloom tomato and corn relish.
Summer Truffle Risotto
Serves 4
Step 1: Mushroom Stock
Ingredients:
- In a medium pot, combine onions, celery and carrot with olive oil and sweat over low heat until onions are translucent.
- Add mushrooms and increase heat while stirring to release water from the mushrooms, about 5 minutes.
- Add water, thyme stems and bay leaves, then bring to simmer for 30 minutes.
- Strain and reserve liquid.
Directions:
- In a medium pot, combine onions, celery and carrot with olive oil and sweat over low heat until onions are translucent.
- Add mushrooms and increase heat while stirring to release water from the mushrooms, about 5 minutes.
- Add water, thyme stems and bay leaves, then bring to simmer for 30 minutes.
- Strain and reserve liquid.
Step 2: Heirloom Tomato - Corn Relish
Ingredients:
- 2 Ripe heirloom tomatoes, center removed, and diced into ¼ inch cubes
- 1 Ear corn, blanched and kernels removed
- 2 Shallots, finely diced
- Juice of 1 Meyer lemon, and zest
- 2 tbsp. Extra virgin olive oil, preferably from California
- Pinch of Maldon sea salt, or Kosher
- Sunflower sprouts
Directions:
Step 3: Truffle Risotto
Ingredients:
- 2 Shallots, finely diced
- 2 tbsp. Olive oil
- Reserved leaves from thyme stems
- 1 cup Carnaroli rice
- 3 tbsp. Sherry vinegar
- 1 cup White wine, Sauvignon Blanc
- 3 cups Mushroom stock, kept hot
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- 1 tbsp. Tartufata, or truffle paste
- 2 tbsp. Butter, cold and diced
- Block of dry cheese, preferably aged goat Gouda, or Parmesan
Directions:
- In a deep saucepan, heat up olive oil and shallots together to begin a gentle sauté.
- Stir constantly, and when shallots begin to brown, about 2 minutes, add rice and keep stirring for an additional 3 minutes.
- Add sherry vinegar, stirring over medium heat until it evaporates, then the wine, continuing to stir until rice is dry.
- Add thyme, hot stock to the rice 1 cup at a time, stirring often and simmering over medium heat.
- As the rice absorbs the stock, add 1/2 c of stock at a time and repeat the process until rice is firm, but not crunchy.
- Remove from heat, and fold in both butter and truffle paste. Adjust seasoning to taste.
- Grate cheese of choice to finish (My favorite is Midnight Moon, an aged Goat Gouda from Cypress Grove).
- To plate, divide risotto into warm bowls or plates, then place some relish in the center of each portion. Drizzle a little olive oil and a touch more of grated cheese.
- Serve!